Capo Bruzzano, Southern Italy — March 2007.

I was driving south on the SS106 along the Ionian coast, at the far edge of Calabria. The cliffs of the Aspromonte met the sea. Waves hit the sandstone.

After a bend in the road, I saw a fishing boat stuck on the rocks. Its name was Kaptan Balıkçılık 1. It was a Turkish name. The hull was damaged and moved with the tide.

I stopped. No one was there.

Later I learned the boat had carried Kurdish refugees. The Coast Guard rescued everyone. The boat was left behind.

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