Capo Bruzzano, Calabria — March 2007

Winding south on the SS106, along the Ionian coast— Calabria’s far edge, where Aspromonte’s cliffs break into the sea. The water hammers the sandstone.

Around a bend: a fishing boat, stranded on the rocks—Kaptan Balıkçılık 1. A Turkish name. The hull, battered by the waves, rocks with the tide.

I stop. No one.

Later I learn: Kurdish refugees. All rescued by the Coast Guard. The boat stayed.